Chocó is mostly home to the descendants of African slaves, whom the Spanish colonialists brought to the New World at the beginning of the 16th century. The area is one of Colombia's most resource-rich provinces, but 79 percent of people lack access to adequate housing, clean water and basic education, according to the latest census, and more than 60 percent of locals live under the poverty line.
The people here have always been among the poorest in Colombia, but decades ago the land was fertile and the rivers provided plenty of fish. Locals mined gold the same way they had for centuries—by dipping a big wooden pan into the bottom of a stream and sifting out the precious metal.
But in the late 2000s, when gold prices soared, paramilitaries and rebel groups, which have long been involved in the drug trade, turned to gold mining too. The armed groups have forced locals to use big dredging machines to dig up the riverbanks. Not only have they destroyed 19,000 hectares of rainforest in Chocó, but they've polluted the water with massive amounts of mercury, which is used to separate gold from other minerals. Today, Colombia ranks second only to China in mercury pollution, according to Colombia's National Planning Department. And locals have reported a variety of health problems, from tremors to memory loss.
There's little residents can do about it. The armed groups often intimidate and forcibly recruit them to search for gold, or subject them to extortion. Sometimes, locals have to pay a war tax to mine, one they can scarcely afford. "Mining is the only opportunity I have to survive in Chocó," says Didier Valencia, 28, who has been working in the gold trade for a decade. "Otherwise, there is nothing." Mining land that isn't controlled by the armed groups isn't an option either. In the late 2000s, the government gave away most of the concessions to multinational corporations, such as South Africa-based AngloGold Ashanti, without consent from local residents.
Recently, President Juan Manuel Santos has cracked down on illegal mining. "We cannot allow them to destroy our environment," he said of the armed groups after a visit to Chocó earlier this year. He assigned a new 500-man unit, which combines members of the army and National Police, to combat the illegal miners. One of the unit's core strategies: bombing their equipment.